Trash Can Liner Size Chart

A trash can liner is sized by its flat dimensions — width × length in inches — not by the gallon number printed on the box. Two liners both labelled “33 gallon” can measure 33″ × 39″ and 33″ × 40″, and a can labelled 32 gallons may be wider than one labelled 33. Sizing from the can’s actual measurements is the only way to get a liner that grips the rim, sits flat on the bottom, and does not slip inside when it fills.

The wrong size costs money in both directions. A liner that is too small tears at the seam, drops into the can, and needs double-bagging. One that is too large wastes several inches of film on every changeout, and across a facility running hundreds of liners a week that adds up fast. Use the charts below to match your can, or measure it in about thirty seconds using the formulas in section 3 and section 4.

1. Trash can liner size chart

This chart is indexed by liner size. Find the stock size you buy, and check which cans it actually fits. Flat dimensions are given as width × length, which is how can liners are listed on every spec sheet and case label.

2. Can size to liner dimensions

This chart works the other way around — it is indexed by the can. Start from the receptacle you already own, read across for the liner it needs, and use the last column to choose between a high density and a low density film.

Can dimensions vary between manufacturers, so treat these as the typical case rather than a guarantee. If your receptacle sits outside these ranges — tapered sides, an unusually deep body, a rigid liner insert — measure it and use the formulas below.

3. How to measure round trash cans

A round can needs two measurements: the diameter of the opening and the height of the body. Everything else is arithmetic.

1. Measure the diameter Lay a tape across the widest point of the opening, passing through the centre. Measure inside the rim, not across the outer lip.
2. Measure the height Run the tape from the inside bottom of the can up to the top rim. Do not include a lid or a dome top.
3. Calculate the liner width Multiply the diameter by 3.14 to get the circumference, then halve it. A flat liner is a folded tube, so half the circumference is its flat width.
4. Calculate the liner length Add the height, half the diameter, and your overhang. Half the diameter accounts for the film that has to spread across the flat bottom of the can.
5. Round up to the nearest stock size Liners are manufactured in fixed sizes. Take the next size up rather than the next size down.

That worked example is a standard 44–45 gallon rolled-rim can, and it lands exactly on the industry-standard 40″ × 46″ liner — which is a useful check that you have measured correctly. If your result is more than two inches away from a stock size in either direction, measure again before ordering a case.

4. How to measure square and rectangular trash cans

Square and rectangular cans are where most sizing mistakes happen, because there is no circumference to work from and the gallon rating on the can is a poor guide. The rule is simpler than it looks: the flat width of the liner is one long side plus one short side of the opening.

1. Measure the long side Measure the inside length of the opening, edge to edge.
2. Measure the short side Measure the inside width of the opening, at right angles to the first measurement.
3. Measure the height From the inside bottom to the top rim.
4. Add the two sides together Long side + short side gives you the flat liner width. This works because the perimeter of the opening is twice that figure, and a flat liner is a flattened tube of that perimeter.
5. Work out the length Height + half the short side + overhang. Half the short side covers the film that has to lie across the base.

5. How much overhang you need

Most commercial cans need 3″ to 4″ of overhang. Overhang is the length of liner that folds over the outside of the rim once the bag is seated. It is what stops the liner sliding into the can when someone drops a heavy item in, and it gives housekeeping enough material to gather and tie at changeout.

Why overhang matters more than it looks

• It stops the liner dropping. Without a cuff, the weight of the first few items pulls the liner off the rim and into the can — the single most common complaint in offices and breakrooms.
• It keeps the can itself clean. A cuffed liner protects the rim and the top few inches of the interior from residue, which cuts down on washing receptacles.
• It makes tying possible. A liner with no spare material cannot be knotted, so staff resort to carrying open bags.
• Too much is waste. More than about six inches on a standard can is film you are paying for, transporting, storing and throwing away unused.

6. Choosing the right thickness

Thickness is measured two different ways, and the two are not interchangeable. High density liners are quoted in microns; low density liners are quoted in mils. One mil equals 0.001 inches, or about 25.4 microns — but a 16 micron high density liner is not the equivalent of a 0.63 mil low density liner, because the resins behave differently. High density film is stiffer and resists tearing along a straight line; low density film stretches around sharp corners instead of splitting.

7. Matching liners from The Cleaning Station

These are the sizes customers most often get wrong, matched to the liners we stock. Each one lists the flat dimensions so you can check it against your own measurements before ordering a case.

Browse the full range on the commercial can liners page, or pair liners with the receptacle they go in from our commercial trash cans and recycling bins ranges. Everything in this section sits under trash cans & bags.

Frequently Asked Questions

Dimensions in these charts are typical industry sizes. Can dimensions vary by manufacturer — measure your receptacle before ordering in volume.